{"id":804,"date":"2016-01-28T18:34:01","date_gmt":"2016-01-29T02:34:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.ansatejones.com\/?p=804"},"modified":"2016-01-28T18:34:01","modified_gmt":"2016-01-29T02:34:01","slug":"digital-portraiture-or-how-i-painted-neko-case-pt-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/2016\/01\/28\/digital-portraiture-or-how-i-painted-neko-case-pt-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Digital Portraiture, or How I Painted Neko Case Pt. 2"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_790\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/nekopink.jpg\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-790\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-790 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/nekopink.jpg\" alt=\"Neko Case, Austin City Limits 2014, reference provided by Scott Newton.\" width=\"700\" height=\"493\" srcset=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/nekopink.jpg 700w, http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/nekopink-300x211.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-790\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Neko Case, Austin City Limits 2014, reference provided by Scott Newton.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Welcome back to my three-part tutorial on digital portraiture, using my most recent Neko Case piece. For those just joining, here&#8217;s some links to catch you up:<\/p>\n<h3>&#8211;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/blog.ansatejones.com\/2016\/01\/16\/digital-portraiture-or-how-i-painted-neko-case-pt-1\/\">Part 1<\/a><\/h3>\n<h3>&#8211;\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=GBewZuv9tdU\">Timelapse Video<\/a><\/h3>\n<p>Now onto Part 2 where I discuss the preparation I go through, including reference photos and settings. While these steps might seem tedious, they&#8217;re super-important to save a lot of frustration later on.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_805\" style=\"width: 564px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-805\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-805\" src=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/monk-youll-thank-me-later.jpg\" alt=\"No, really. You will.\" width=\"554\" height=\"523\" srcset=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/monk-youll-thank-me-later.jpg 554w, http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/monk-youll-thank-me-later-300x283.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 554px) 100vw, 554px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-805\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">No, really. You will.<\/p><\/div>\n<h2>Picking a Subject<\/h2>\n<p>When I was learning how to draw I exclusively used photo references. I was later told that the only way to really draw something well is to draw it while it&#8217;s in front of you, like a portrait sitting or still life. I disagree with this; to me they&#8217;re two different methods, each with their own pros and cons. A lot of time it just comes down to necessity. I obviously wasn&#8217;t able to get Neko Case to sit down for a portrait so I had to draw from a picture. But which picture?<\/p>\n<p>Obviously we should pick a composition that appeals to us, or cobble something together from several different pictures to create our own. Another criterion is quality; we can certainly draw from a crappy, out-of-focus, low-res photo but we&#8217;ll get better results the more details we have to work with.<\/p>\n<p>I specifically wanted to do a picture of Neko that wasn&#8217;t promotional, because I wanted her to look real. For concerts she doesn&#8217;t get all made up and actually looks the age she is today, which is amazing and inspirational in this day and age. She&#8217;s a musician, not a model. I picked this concert photo by Scott Newton because I really liked the colors and composition, and Neko looks pretty badass in it.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_806\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-806\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-806\" src=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/3909neko_Marquee_SNP491026-600x213.jpg\" alt=\"Photo by Scott Newton.\" width=\"600\" height=\"213\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-806\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo by Scott Newton.<\/p><\/div>\n<h2>Document Settings<\/h2>\n<p>If you want to be able to make prints of your work later, it&#8217;s important to choose the right settings when creating your file. Making sure that your picture will be large enough, that the<\/p>\n<p>I set my resolution to at least 300 ppi and my size to 16 x 20 inches.<\/p>\n<p>Saving the file as a psd or tif with layers and <a href=\"http:\/\/photoshop4artists.blogspot.com\/2009\/04\/file-types-lossy-vs-lossless-files-for.html\">no compression<\/a> are good options for preserving all the details in your picture without pixelization. Later you can save as a jpg to share on the web or upload to a print service. Consider your psd or tif the &#8216;original&#8217;.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_808\" style=\"width: 490px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-808\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-808 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/kgill-480x600.jpg\" alt=\"Karen Gillan as Amy Pond from Doctor Who. Reference courtesy of BBC.\" width=\"480\" height=\"600\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-808\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Karen Gillan as Amy Pond from Doctor Who. Reference courtesy of BBC.<\/p><\/div>\n<h2>Brush Settings<\/h2>\n<p>I&#8217;ve mentioned there are many brush options out there, but in Photoshop I tend to stick to the Wet Media preset because they are closest to traditional brushes. Opening the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.photoshopessentials.com\/basics\/photoshop-brushes\/brush-dynamics\/brush-dynamics-intro\/\">Brush panel<\/a> allows you to tweak each brush in a preset, or create your own brushes and presets.<\/p>\n<h3>My preferred options for each brush are as follows:<\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li>Set spacing to 1% (otherwise I find the edges of the lines appear too jagged)<\/li>\n<li>Turn smoothing on (helps with the jaggedness)<\/li>\n<li>Turn transfer on, and in its options:\n<ul>\n<li>Set opacity control to pen pressure (similar to the buildup option, this lets you make a darker mark or lighter mark depending on how hard you press down)<\/li>\n<li>Turn jitter off<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Turn shape dynamics on, with these options:\n<ul>\n<li>Set angle control to pen tilt (the angle at which you hold the tablet pen will determine the shape of the brush, so you can do stuff like make a dot with the tip or create lines with the pen held more horizontally)<\/li>\n<li>Turn jitter off<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Be sure once you are done you save them as new brushes; I still can&#8217;t figure out how else to get Photoshop to save my preferred settings.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_809\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-809\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-809\" src=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/fi-600x545.jpg\" alt=\"Fiona, one of my kitties. Reference photo by April Burton\/Ansate Jones.\" width=\"600\" height=\"545\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-809\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fiona, one of my kitties. Reference photo by April Burton\/Ansate Jones.<\/p><\/div>\n<h2>Tablet Settings<\/h2>\n<p>You can reconfigure every button on your tablet and pen if you really want to. I do the following minimal things to streamline my process:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Make sure that in Photoshop settings you have the tablet scroll wheel <a href=\"https:\/\/helpx.adobe.com\/photoshop\/using\/viewing-images.html#zoom_in_or_out\">set to zoom<\/a>; you have to do this in your tablet settings and in Photoshop for whatever reason.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure any &#8216;touch&#8217; option is off, meaning just the pen will activate the drawing area. Now you can rest your hand on the tablet while drawing without worrying about interference with controls.<\/li>\n<li>I keep the buttons on my right hand side because I draw with the left. Sometimes the tablet will see this as &#8216;upside-down&#8217; and the cursor will go &#8216;backwards&#8217;. If this happens you need to go into your\u00a0tablet driver settings to &#8216;flip&#8217; the layout.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Once you have your free hand working the tablet buttons you can utilize shortcuts as you would on a keyboard. For example, you can hold down the pan\/scroll button on the Intuos 5 tablet while dragging on the drawing surface. It turns the cursor into the <a href=\"https:\/\/helpx.adobe.com\/photoshop\/using\/viewing-images.html#view_another_area_of_an_image\">hand tool<\/a> in Photoshop so you can move around the picture as you work on it without having to zoom in and out or use the scroll bars.<\/p>\n<p>That&#8217;s\u00a0it for prep work! Join me next time for Part 3 where I finally get to the fun part: drawing!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/blog.ansatejones.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/nekopink.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-790 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/blog.ansatejones.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/nekopink.jpg\" alt=\"Neko Case, Austin City Limits 2014, reference provided by Scott Newton.\" width=\"700\" height=\"493\" srcset=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/nekopink.jpg 700w, http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/nekopink-300x211.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a> Neko Case, Austin City Limits 2014, reference provided by Scott Newton.<\/p>\n<p>Welcome back to my three-part tutorial on digital portraiture, using my most recent Neko Case piece. For those just joining, here&#8217;s some links to catch you up:<\/p>\n<h3>&#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/blog.ansatejones.com\/2016\/01\/16\/digital-portraiture-or-how-i-painted-neko-case-pt-1\/\">Part 1<\/a><\/h3>\n<h3>&#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=GBewZuv9tdU\">Timelapse Video<\/a><\/h3>\n<p>Now onto part 2 where I discuss the preparation I go through, including reference photos and settings. While these steps might seem tedious, they&#8217;re super-important to save a lot of frustration later on.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[8,15],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v19.10 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Digital Portraiture, or How I Painted Neko Case Pt. 2 - Hieratic<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/ansatejones.com\/blog\/2016\/01\/28\/digital-portraiture-or-how-i-painted-neko-case-pt-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Digital Portraiture, or How I Painted Neko Case Pt. 2 - Hieratic\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Neko Case, Austin City Limits 2014, reference provided by Scott Newton. Welcome back to my three-part tutorial on digital portraiture, using my most recent Neko Case piece. For those just joining, here&#039;s some links to catch you up: - Part 1 - Timelapse Video Now onto part 2 where I discuss the preparation I go through, including reference photos and settings. 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Welcome back to my three-part tutorial on digital portraiture, using my most recent Neko Case piece. For those just joining, here's some links to catch you up: - Part 1 - Timelapse Video Now onto part 2 where I discuss the preparation I go through, including reference photos and settings. 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